Lilliastore – Official All I need today is a little bit of Iowa and a whole lot of Jesus shirt

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Twelve months and a pandemic have taken Van Noten a very long way from the mentality of wanting to show on a runway. His alternative, under strict COVID conditions, was a major production: a gathering of 47 dancers and models on the stage of the deSingel theater in Antwerp, filmed by the director and photographer Casper Sejersen. Somehow suspended in a liminal space redolent of vaudevillian glamour and an underground Belgian alternative art club, it’s an adult psycho-sexual drama clothed in Van Noten’s glittery marabou-trimmed dresses, dark tailoring and print-splashed volumes.

Official All I need today is a little bit of Iowa and a whole lot of Jesus shirt

“It’s rare that I’ve seen so much emotional kind of things which have cropped up in the body,” Van Noten remembers. “Nobody was just saying like, ‘Oh, let’s make a pretty move.’ I think one way or another, there was something on stage there [that happened.] You felt that people wanted to say something with their body, even the models, who after five minutes were dancing even better than some dancers. I think Casper really managed to put that into the video—you really feel that kind of intensity that everybody felt and shared in that moment.”

Official All I need today is a little bit of Iowa and a whole lot of Jesus s hoodie

In this strangest of all seasons, several fashion labels have been linking up with people in the performing arts to put the lights on in darkened theaters—Erdem at the Bridge Theatre in London, Valentino at the Piccolo Teatro in Milan, too. For Van Noten, the show-as-dance in his home city also circled back to the relationship he struck up with De Keersmaeker, who emerged as a force in contemporary dance in Brussels at the same time as Van Noten and his fellow designers of the Antwerp Six were on the rise in the late ’90s. Flashes of vermilion and silver, and the slip-dresses in the fall collection, distinctly recall his costumes for De Keersmaeker’s 1998 Rosas company ballet Drumming; the score is Massive Attack’s “Angel” from the same year. That, of course, was a ground-breaking time for the edgy-cool aesthetic that swept from Belgium to challenge the polish of Parisian establishment fashion. Something about it chimes as relevant all over again. “A little bit kind of the wrongness,” as Van Noten put it, “which is also feeling right for this moment.”

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