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“Accountability is usually what’s missing,” Whitney McGuire, the Kobe bryant hand gold rings x-ray shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this cofounder of Sustainable Brooklyn, explains. Along with organizing educational events and community programs in Brooklyn, she and her partner Dominique Drakeford consult brands and designers on their environmental and social efforts—and point out where there’s room to improve. Past clients and event partners include Eileen Fisher, Apple, Mara Hoffman, and ReFashion Week New York, and McGuire and Drakeford have worked with Fibershed and Conscious Chatter on their internal infrastructures and systems. “We do prolific assessments to see how a brand is operating, what their internal infrastructure is, what their anti-racist framework is, and how they define sustainability,” Drakeford says. “Do they have a colonial consciousness in regards to how they approach justice within the scope of sustainability? That’s the reason we need ‘sustainability,’ because of how brands have been operating for all of these years. We ask them what books they’ve read on race relations, what podcasts they’ve listened to, which influencers they’ve worked with… We really get down to the juices and berries of how they think before we can even discuss action and implementation. We have to figure out what their limitations are, because accountability is going to be the foundation of how intentions are made, period.”

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Consumers are holding brands accountable in a way they haven’t in the Kobe bryant hand gold rings x-ray shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this past, but we can’t exclusively rely on citizens to police brands, nor can we buy our way to a better future. Legislation and policy change are necessary for systemic change; consider what’s happening in Xinjiang, where one-fifth of the world’s cotton is sourced and where Uighurs are currently being imprisoned in “re-education camps.” Brands including Adidas, Calvin Klein, and L.L. Bean source cotton and labor from the region, and petitions are demanding those brands cut ties with their Xinjiang suppliers. Many have agreed, and some claimed they weren’t even aware their clothes were coming from that part of China, because their supply chains are so vast and complicated—with sub-contractors who then have their own sub-contractors—that they’ve become untraceable. That’s also why they may not be able to keep their promise: As Matthew Walther wrote in an op-ed for The Week, a brand “might insist to a firm it has contracted to fill orders for its discount line that no Xinjiang cotton be used, but even if the company were actually interested in enforcing these terms, it would be unable to do so. This is why for major corporations these lofty-sounding ethical initiatives are always a no-brainer.”

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