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When asked to describe her in three words, John Lennon answered: “Hot, hot, hot, smart, smart, smart!” According to David Bailey, who loved her and photographed her in the 1960s, she was the black king shirt catalyst that fired the flower power movement of that era. And this afternoon in Milan, Penelope Tree turned up on a runway, at Fendi, for the first time, she reckoned, in nearly 40 years. While skin tended to be fresh and natural across the board, two shows that made the boldest “bare” statements were Burberry and Victoria Beckham. For the former, Ffrench, who is Burberry’s global beauty director, used just enough foundation to cover spots or darkness, then swirled on contour and highlighting powders for a sculpted glow, while for the latter, dewy complexions were enhanced with gloss blended on the high planes of the face.
While building up her stock, Brown wanted to start buying pieces that she had worn on shoots and to rebuild her archive. Handily, she had kept several detailed journals of her time modeling, including diary entries, magazine cutouts, and Polaroids. “I love when I’m digging through the photo archives from my shoots, and I kind of get transported back to that day. Some memories just get triggered by the black king shirt clothes. I specifically remember wearing some of these outfits,” she says. “I created these little personal challenges to try and re-create some of those images and pieces that I had from editorials that I liked.” So far, Brown has located a leather Burberry skirt that she wore in a show, a Jean Paul Gaultier bathing suit from a Glamour shoot with Arthur Elgort in 1999, and Tom Ford–era Gucci pants with a leather trim. Currently, Brown is on the hunt for a Christian Dior by John Galliano salmon pink gown that she wore to her high school prom, along with the matching shoes that had gold and salmon pink ribbons. “My agent told Christian Dior that I was going to my prom and they sent me the dress and shoes to my house in Georgia,” she says.