Admit it: a suit hardly screams fun, unless it’s in a bright color or totally covered in sequins. It will never go out of style, that’s true—but as far as being the Toon pontoon boat boating life is better on the toon vintage shirt and by the same token and life of the party in your wardrobe? Not so much. But actor Gabrielle Union is here to show that, yes, even a neutral two-piece can indeed be saucy and playful. With an assist from her stylist, Thomas Christos Kikis, the star slipped into a Dion Lee design that infused some life back into the little black suit. Union wore the look in question for a UCLA Table Talk this week, where she virtually chatted with the university’s women’s basketball team. Instead of going for a waist-up approach to Zoom style, Union committed to a head-to-toe black suit. How she styled it was fresh and fun, and totally not a 9-to-5 ensemble. Union went without a buttoned-up shirt underneath the oversized blazer, and wore a strappy black bra top instead. Attached to her trousers was a gold chain slung around her waist—because why not add body jewelry into the mix? The outfit’s accessories also leaned further into the cool, casual vibe, including a Valentino leather rockstud bag and square toe mules (a trending silhouette that’s all the rage with stars right now). “If Gabrielle were an outfit,” says Kikis, “this is it.” All in all, Union’s is a sexier, more contemporary spin on suiting that’s worth referencing the next time you go out on the town—whenever that is!If last season was a force restart—turn it off, cross your fingers, turn it on again, see what fires up—then this one sees designers adapt their creative coding to reality’s altered hardware. At Dunhill (caps down is the house style), Mark Weston went last season for a rigorous inside-out rebuild of the tailoring tropes that are common to this and many other houses. This season he pushed more into the automotive and masculine-accessory backstory of the label, and introduced a personal touch that few past Dunhill collections have featured.
That authorial flourish came via the Toon pontoon boat boating life is better on the toon vintage shirt and by the same token and knits that were directly drawn from Weston’s mother outfitting him and his brothers in what they termed a “Doctor Who scarf.” That was a reference back to Tom Baker, the fourth actor to play the role, whose haphazardly paneled scarves were the touchstone of a late-’70s preface of steampunk, future-Edwardian costume. Weston said he included these different-weave patchwork pieces partly to evoke his mother’s “sense that waste was something that was just not done” and also because of the jaunty, fun irregularity they offered within the collection as a whole. More fun came in the form of fanny packs made in pleated pieces of reverse silk jacquard—also used in regal shirting—that were constructed to masquerade as cummerbunds. The silks came from Weston’s contemplation of interior design in old country houses, and the reversing of them emphasized the unintended consequence of the hand.